Food Review: Cosy and stylish fine dining at The Fairview in Kingsclere

Our reporter Mirek Gosney went to find out what culinary delights The Fairview Restaurant & Bar has to offer.

The Fairview is a quaint restaurant nestled within the scenic setting of the Sandford Springs Hotel in Kingsclere.

Now separate from the adjacent golf club, the restaurant is set to make its mark in fine dining under head chef James Callery, who joined in March.

Mr Callery, from Newbury, would not give much away, but revealed he is devising a new gourmet menu featuring modern twists to appeal to the appetite of hotel guests and culinary enthusiasts alike.

I was seated at my table by waiter Kacper on Friday night.

The restaurant interior was intimate and bright. Quirky artwork adorned the walls with views of the beautifully landscaped fields visible outside.

Jazz renditions of pop classics, some questionable, provided the background ambience as I began my meal.

I was first treated to complementary basket of fragrant, light, fluffy onion bread and rosemary and parmesan bread, which I washed down with a Mimosa (£6.50), a bittersweet mix of Prosecco and orange juice.

Then came my starter; wild mushrooms and sautéed oyster mushroom terrine (£9.50), with savoy cabbage, artichoke truffle cream and Irish soda bread.

The mushrooms were crisp and the whole dish was full of colours and earthy flavours.

Next, my main course was served; seared rump of beef (£28.50), with braised oxheart ragu, truffle kale, pan roasted gnocchi and beef jus.

The main, like the starter, continued the minimalist trend with a clear scope for experimentation, echoing Mr Callery’s earlier promise.

The meat was cooked very tender and the gnocchi was soft. But the standout was undoubtedly the ragu – which was incredibly tasty.

It was now time for dessert; individual pear tarte-tatin (£9), with rosemary butter and smoked whisky ice cream. Delicious!

It was slightly chewy, but the rosemary butter ensured it went down smoothy, as well as the ice cream, a refreshing palette cleaner.

On the whole, dining at The Fairview was a pleasant and peaceful experience. The food showed passion and the staff were friendly.

The restaurant is open on Friday and Saturday evenings and Sunday lunchtimes. Why not venture out and try something different? You won’t regret it.