THE FOOD REVIEW: ‘Top-quality Italian food’ at The Boxford in Lambourn Road near Newbury

The Boxford is a new Italian inspired restaurant venture from WSH Restaurants, the team behind The Woodspeen, one of West Berkshire's most lauded eateries. But while the quality is comparable the offer is quite different.

Just two-and-a-half miles north of The Woodspeen, in the village from which it takes its name, The Boxford—which opened last November—is set in a tall, long modern structure that immediately draws the eye when travelling along Lambourn Road.

The wood-clad building gives the impression of a futuristic Viking longhouse and once inside, the high, open space really instils the sense of community that is central to the restaurant's ethos.

When embarking on the new venture, WSH wanted The Boxford to differ from its sister restaurant down the road. They aspired to make The Boxford a hub for the local community so it is open all day for coffee and cakes, and weekend mornings for breakfast.

This community-led approach also dictated the style of food they wanted to serve. Italian food was the obvious choice. Easy going and understated food that everyone can enjoy.

However, don't think for one second that this choice means they skimp on quality. Head chef and proud Sicilian Mirko Privitera has created a menu of simple, recognisable dishes that are all cooked and presented extremely well.

You may think you know what you're getting with popular Italian staples such as Linguine Alla Carbonara or Margherita Pizza, but I guarantee that you won't have tasted better versions than the ones served at The Boxford.

I visited with a friend at lunchtime and the almost full restaurant created a lively and welcoming atmosphere that was enhanced by some excellent service from the waiting staff.

To start, we had Olive All'ascolana, deep fried breaded olives stuffed with mixed minced meat (£9), Prawn Tempura with chilli, lemon and sriracha mayo (£12). and Burrata with Heritage beetroots, pickled shallots, white balsamic and basil oil (£13).

I am not a fan of olives but the meat balanced out the unique saltiness of them, and the breaded olives made for a moreish little Italian snack.

The tasty prawns were encased in melt-in-your-mouth crispy batter, nicely paired with the spicy kick of the mayo and some sliced jalapeños.

The real star of the starter show was the burrata on a large salad that I'd recommend to share.

A large white bulb of the creamy and soft cheese is presented on a bed of salad leaves and thick chunks of Heritage beetroot circled by the oil and vinegar.

The mellow nature of the burrata complements the sweetness of the beetroot perfectly, and it's a great vegetarian option to start.

For the main course we sampled the two main bedrocks of the menu; pizza and pasta.

The Pepperoni Pizza (£14) had a sweet, deep flavourful passata base with cheesy chunks of mozzarella and plenty of salty, meaty pepperoni discs.

The tasty pizza also had puffy, doughy crusts that you certainly won't want to leave on your plate.

For the pasta, we had Spaghetti Al Gambero, which was pesto-based with king prawns, cherry tomatoes and garlic (£26).

In short, it was simply sublime and, I'm amazed to say, possibly the best pasta dish I have ever had.

The creamy pesto sauce had buckets of flavour and, when combined with the perfectly-cooked pasta, prawns and sweet tomatoes, it made for a real showstopper.

There is also a 'Not Pasta, Not Pizza' section for those who'd like something a bit different.

Choices include a roasted cauliflower dish (£17), Sea Bass Fillet with shrimps and samphire (£27) and Venison Burger with celeriac remoulade (£17). Pork Cutlet Alla Milanese (£24) is a breaded pork cutlet with mustard dressing, pecorino, chives and lemon, and skinny fries.

To finish we were treated to a trio of desserts, all healthy portions and top quality.

The Crème Brûlée (£8) was lovely and light, and the confit orange and fresh clementine on the sugar top added a nice fruity accent.

The Tiramisu (£9) and Affogato (£6) were respectful to their roots and certainly won't disappoint any dedicated pudding fans.

Pannetone Bread and Butter Pudding (£8) and Panna Cotta with poached pears (£8) are also on offer.

The Boxford is the new premier spot for Italian food in West Berkshire.

The top-quality food is paired with superb service and it never feels elitist or snobby.

It will cost a tad more than your average meal out but, I promise you, it's worth it.

The Boxford, Lambourn Road, Boxford. 01635 265079, hello@theboxford.com, https://theboxford.com/